Taravai, one of the islands in the Gambier archipelago, lays
a few miles southeast of the main island Mangareva and is about 1/3 of its
size. There used to be a tiny village in the past, but now only a handful of
people live on the island permanently and they are spread out. The cute,
historic church still stands and the grounds are maintained well by the residents.
Five reef strewn bays, in which it is possible to anchor, surround the island.
To navigate the area, good sunlight and good charts are mandatory. On top of
that, you want to find a sandy, coral free spot on the bottom to drop your
anchor, and you want to be protected from the existing wind, which changes
direction often here.
Other than visiting two local families and braving the cold
water for two snorkel sessions (just me), Mark and I bush wacked our way to the
top of a hill one day, collecting scratches on every exposed body part. We also
baked a lot of things in the oven to stay warm and observed the pretty scenery
from Irie’s cockpit, when the sun was shining upon us.
About once a week, a cold front passes over the Gambier Islands.
This means that the wind clocks around, sometimes slowly and lightly, sometimes
over more time and at higher speed. The only fully protected harbor in the
Gambier is the town of Rikitea on Mangareva, so instead of spending a hoped for
two weeks in Tarawai, we had to motor for three hours and return to our (and
everybody’s) base anchorage after eight days. The positive of this move is that
we can splurge on fresh baguettes again, and there should be a supply ship in
port “soon”. Each time we inquire in town, it will arrive “demain”… Sounds like
mañana. There is always mañana! :-)
Here are some pictures of our “vacation” in the beautiful
environs of little Taravai:
Irie all by herself in the southern bay, with Mangareva visible in the cut.
Having a picnic with Birgit and Christian (SV Pitufa) in Onemea Bay, a cold and wet dinghy ride away. Based on the tropical looking location, you won't expect us to wear wetsuits or foul weather gear to stay warm!
Tasty spread for our picnic, with the last baguettes from Rikitea.
Navigating Onemea Bay (and other ones) by dinghy to go around all the shallow coral heads involves standing up and pointing out dark spots
Picturesque island in the southeast corner of Taravai; the dark spots in the foreground are reefs
Historic church in Taravai village, built by the Belgian infamous priest Laval
Walking through the well-manicured environs of Taravai "village"
View from Hervé's property in Taravai village
Hervé and his son Alain, near the church
The picturesque setting of the only house on the small island SE of Taravai
Pigs and chickens on the property of the only house on the island in Taravai's southeast corner
This pig reminded us of a dog. She was very friendly, curious and loved her belly rubs!
Bush wacking to the top of the SE island of Taravai; this was the first point we got stuck
After an hour or so, we reached the top with this view from a patch of pine trees.
On the way back, it was easier, because we could follow the trail we made before. Here, it turned into a slide down in between the tall and sharp reeds.
Irie and Pitufa in Onemea Bay; we decided to move the big boat here for a bit (photo by Birgit Hackl)
Irie in the sunset of Onemea Bay (photo by Birgit Hackl)
Pitufa in Baie Onemea
Bright and pretty parrot fish while snorkeling in Onemea
One of the colorful coral formations in the Gambier islands (Onemea)
When you brave the cold water and chilly air, you can swim in expansive coral gardens
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