Since the moment Mark and I reached mainland Panama again, a
month and a half ago, we wanted to check out the Chagres River. The plan was to
anchor there for a few days on the way to or from Bocas del Toro. We all know
how that adventure went… After the productive days in the Colon city, we exited
the breakwater and motored ten miles west for three days of refuge in nature.
The entrance of the Rio Chagres was a little bit tricky – not to be done in big
swells – but once inside, the surroundings were serene and beautiful solitude
awaited.
Fuerte San Lorenzo towered above Irie, when we passed by close
to shore. Seven years ago Mark, Darwin, Kali and I visited these ruins at the
end of a jungle road with our camper. Back then, we could see a sailboat
anchored in the river underneath. Who would have guessed we would do the same
thing one day. Only, we skipped the beginning of the river, which was quite
choppy and ventured further upriver for about three miles. On the way we passed
one other catamaran, anchored in peace. We would be the only two boats there.
Our first anchoring attempt seemed to be in one of the narrower parts of the
river – we are new to this river cruising – and we ended up pretty close to shore.
We wanted to be near the rainforest, but not being part of it! So, we moved a
mile further up and found a perfect, wide spot in a river bend.
It was quiet and peaceful. The water was fresh and flat.
What a spoil. Taking showers felt clean and awesome; the water less cold than
expected. We took turns washing up. While one person jumped in, the other
watched for approaching crocodiles. They stayed hidden and I even managed to
scrape the long green beard off Irie’s bottom without being eaten. I have to
say, it is a bit more tiresome to stay afloat in fresh water than in salt
water.
We paddled the dinghy up and down a small river near us,
being swallowed up by the jungle and the quietness. Egrets, kingfishers and
herons were the passers-by and a herd of howler monkeys made a loud ruckus from
time to time. We never managed to spot one. The absence of interesting wildlife
was compensated by the amazing night sounds of the jungle. Once it was pitch
black outside, we looked for red eyes along shore with a strong flashlight.
Only once did we spot a set, belonging to a crocodile. When we wanted to
venture closer the next evening, the creature was gone.
With our dinghy we followed the Rio Chagres until it dead
ended at the Gatun dam, where car traffic was sparse. We followed the banks of
the river back and forth to spot crocodiles, but they all looked like
logs. Rowing up and down the short side
rivers was magnificent and the highlight of our stay. Being one with the jungle
in such a peaceful environment is magical indeed.
But then, one morning another streak of bad luck hit us.
After a short visit to shore, while clambering back into the dinghy to avoid
mud getting all over it, my (underwater) camera slipped unnoticed out of my
pocket… into the deep, fathomless and murky water. Gone! The Rio Chagres
absorbed my dear, expensive camera (which was a previous birthday gift from
Mark) and with it a bunch of unreleased pictures and movies. What I felt was
indescribable.
Once back on Irie, Mark slipped on our step – the one without
anti-slip material since we fixed a hole there – while trying to rinse
something in the water. He fell hard on his tailbone and hurt his back as well.
Right before our boat yard visit where we plan loads of heavy work. At least we
had a couple of nice, enchanting days before it is back to reality and to a
less fun part of boat ownership! We wish we could have stayed longer.
(PS: Reduced amount of pictures due to loss of them and their
apparatus)
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